The attractions of Tragara: a conservative Italian menu with no surprises, top-quality ingredients, simple dishes deftly prepared, a thoroughly professional, European-style staff and a softly lighted, handsome dining room. Order anything. The seafood salad makes an impressive beginning, as does the seafood soup. Fried mozzarella gets elegant treatment here, and the vegetable soup is subtle but satisfying. Tomato sauces are fresh tasting and pastas cooked properly, but the highlights are the simple meat and seafood dishes, such as veal scaloppini with wild mushrooms, the utterly simple rack of lamb or the snapper Livornese. Be warned that the lobster-pasta combinations are exceptionally messy to eat (definitely to be avoided on a first date). End up with the intense gelati - their flavors are the most innovative thing on the menu.