Get ready for a new kind of favorite food. The roti — an irresistible doughy flatbread whose Indian origins speak to Trinidad’s kaleidoscope of cultural influences — is made to order by owner Pam Jacob, the anchor for the restaurant’s flotilla of helping family hands. Jacob sprinkles spiced, ground, yellow split peas (dahl) between the layers of dough for the Dahlpurie Roti, enveloping potatoes and garbanzo beans with your choice of chicken, beef, lamb or goat. Wrapped with wax paper, it is meant to be picked up and eaten, carefully, tearing the top inch or two of paper at a time. The same meats are available in a different style: Paratha Roti, known in Trinidad as “Buss-up-shut” for its resemblance to a “bust-up shirt” because it comes in folds that easily tear into flickering flakes that look like the shredded cloth of a disintegrating shirt.

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